Friday, January 2, 2009

A visit to Lansdown : Dad's New Year Gift.

Dear Candy,
On the first day of the year, I steered your mom and grandparents to a place called Lansdowne, a picturesque hill station cum Army Cantonment of Garhwal Rifles likewise GTC Subathu near Dharampur (HP) which you experienced last Summers. Your grandfather was equally excited as it was like a homecoming ever since he left that place in early 60’s. It was a privilege for me as well for reminding his childhood days at the soil where he was born. Away from the glitz of New Year celebrations, its Rawats’ novel way to spend the day with a bye gone era.
Missed you love, at every moment of the day. Again addressing the travelogue for you, which is also meant for my curious readers.
Its two at the night and uploading the blog in a very struggling circumstances. Today at 7, I will be leaving back to Chandigarh. Plenty to come on my this visit. Keep blessing me for your blogs.
Stay connected"
Your loving Dad,
Sudeep Rawat

…… And here goes my travelogue.
My delayed journey starts from the foothill of Kotdwar due to dense fog in the morning. Test of patience for me especially for my Dad, till the fog clears. Fogs on foothills generally doesn't last for long and by 11, we got the rid from misty environ. Me, Poonam and my parents made our way to NH 119 crossing Sidhballi intersection, appreciating the grandeur of mighty temple situated on the river Khoh. Devotees continue to throng to make their New Year start by visiting numerous Lords, but I have no such intention. I zipped uphills in search of one more level of satisfaction. Yahh !!! Beyond spiritualism.

I was amazed to see rural women folks braving the mountains chill coming out of their home for daily fuel (wood) and feed for their cattle. I managed to click some from my car without taking any pain to get outside but made me in deep thought about that granny which I shoot just short while ago – simply, on her survival. Hardly two kilomters before Aamsaur lies Durga Devi temple on the bank of river of Khoh. Made in a traditional form, the temple attracts many passerby leaving discomfort to the running traffic. Faith is faith. I can't interfere in that. Enroute finds the first town of Duggada which comprises of all departments of civic amenities and first major check post of Forest Department. Intresting notice, I made that Mahindra jeeps are much popular than that of state transport in terms of passengers carriage which are continued to increase on Highways.

Barely two kilometres from Duggada, NH 119 bisects for yet another route to Lansdown. And from here, never-ending tales of Dad’s childhood experience continue to entertain us. My Dad was born and done his initial education from a tiny town of Lansdowne and Jairikhal. My grandfather, who once served British Army, was finally assigned with Garhwal Riffle Regiment Centre which was (even now) headquartered at Lansdowne. In early 60’s Rawat moves to downhills at Kotdwar after purchasing a huge piece of land which now turned into their farm houses.

This drive to Lansdowne revealed many untouched and hidden aspects of my father. His each narration recounts his detailed experiences which he spent here. “That chungi (barrier) is Fatehpur and next one would be Dhobighat which used to be Army's laundry at my times” informed Dad on his tips. Numerous red and green painted forest check posts enroute bears the wild life and forest conservation messages, made my speed on a minimum. Lansdowne is now thronged by tourists across the country which is gradually getting the touch of commercialization. I observed during my drive, lot many hotel constructions for tapping tourism potential just outside the cantonment periphery. Hardly one kilmetres before Lansdowne, Dehrikhal bisects to yet another route towards Tarkeshwar Mahadev, Rikhnikhal and many Khals . Hey eyy. Ahhha !!! I never knew one of my Punjabi friend - Tarkeshwar share his name with this tiny outskirt of Garhwals. Garhwal Himalayas is full of khals whose literal means mount. Lexicon wise it means dwelling situated on mounts.

At entrance, cantonment check post charges Rs. 13 for a car and Rs. 1 against each tourist which is payeable for mainentance and other establishments . After all Lansdowne has plenty to serve you and for your eyes. Three Victoria Cross Awardees (during the World War II) from the Garhwal Rifles Regiments with their massive all weather resistance portraits made your formal welcome. “Dad Isn’t that your Dad has been missed out of here.” I shared a little gag with my family. It took me no time to pose myself at their backdrope. Smell of the pines keeps me on rolls as we are inching towards the town’s bazaar. Jawans of Garhwal Riffles with their tight vigils never allowed me to shoot their premises leaving me scores of disappointment. Crossing MES, we stopped at Gandhi Park whose circular accommodate old fashioned and newly constructed shops, unsystematic bus/taxi stand. Dad locate the same adda (place) where he used have gupshupp with his friends after the school. The bazaar fulfils the needs of far flung villages and mainly the shopping place for Rangruts . Down their at the Sadar Bazaar shops sells material of everyone’s choice. Apart from local Garhwalis, trading class from the Muslims of nearby Najibabad and Bijnore to Maarwari/Rajput Darjees (settled here pre-independence) had made their good hold on their business. My eyes were looking for a tailor contractor Mohanlal Roopchand who prepares caps for the new recruits of Garhwal Riffles. Interestingly he bears his cloth cut strip stamp on his caps likewise any Levis, Wrangler on their attires. I purchased one for my memorabilia.

My Dad who underwent his knee surgery two months ago, was restricted with movements. Poonam and me were smart enough to leave parents at a tea corner for Dad’s reminisces with mom. Dad wants to capture every spot of Lansdowne and Jairikhal within limited allocated time, as we have to be at Kotdwara by evening. He made me steered to a little uphill for the entire view of Lansdowne, where he wants to be posed himself. Pointed at the old structured roof shed garrison, “that was the hospital where your both chachaji (uncles) were born. That’s your grandfather office and wohhh … my school which are now Army’s important functionaries.” Explained Dad as much as he can. Believe me !! I felt so satisfied to find my Dad in such a nostalgic mode.

Kilometres away from there, GRRC developed a yet another newly constructed tourist spot called Bhulla Taal whose literal means Little Brother’s Pond. It is delight to hear the quacks of numerous duck while having boating and feeding various species of rabbits. A big display in the middle of compound suggests GRRC has been conferred with prestigious Indira Gandhi Environmental Award under the categories of “enhancing water conservation resources, preservation of historical monuments, promoting awareness towards environment, preservation of flora and fauna, tree plantation and pollution control”. That solved my mystery why Cantt Board took a pain to numbered each trees in the Lansdowne with trees’ detailed nailed on him. Ohh Wowww…… that display was self explanatory. Another facet of Armymen apart from securing motherland.

Dad wants to show us the Darwan Singh Museum which exhibits the achievements, artefacts, records and antiques of the GRRC. Situated closed to the statue of Victoria Cross Awardee Gabar Singh, museum is housed at a British inherited property. Call it a bad luck when we were informed that museum opens during evening. Was that a wild goose chase for Rawats, rued all of us.

Dad, after this disappointment, made his mind to take us at Tiffin Top, another tourist spot. Wandering weather Dad really used to have his school Tiffin to that height. Tiffin top or Tip n Top, a topmost viewpoint of Lansdowne gives you a panoramic view of Himalayas. It is now on tourist map of Uttranchal tourism and has accommodation of GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam, a tourism undertaking of Govt. of Uttrakhand) ranging from Rs. 1500 to Rs. 2100. The spot also offers refuge to young boys and gals for their ideal date. Family lunch at tiffin top facing Jairikhal was the moment, which will hardly come again.

Lansdowne was founded and named after then Viceroy of India, Lord Lansdowne in 1887. Lansedown now turning out to be melting pot of various communes. A Catholic sister informed me about the presence of St. John School (upto Grade V) which is planed for its expansion but restricted under the Cantonment Board regulations. Churches like St. Mary flocked by residential Amry Officers with their family, School boarders and many visitors every Sunday. Also over 50 Muslim families give much support to carry on their petty trades. Dad was overwhelmed by the developments of Cantonment and Jairikhal but showed his concerned on the concrete invasion.

Finally on way back to home, it was the turn of Jairikhal, a small outskirt outside the Cantonment. I was really confused with its pronunciation – is that Zeharikhal (poisonous fur), Jai-Harikhal or Jairikhal. Whatever, “naam mein kya rakha hai.” Afterall, I made to the pilgrimage which was much awaited for my Dad. On reaching Jairikhal, Dad added another memorable photo-shoot just outside his college gate and quietly gets in to join us

1 comment:

  1. hi sudeep first of all love for your little sweet candy, as u just told me today that she is no more with us. i was shocked at that time. but as u said life has to go on so may god bless little princes' soul.

    now moving on to your travelogue i found it interesting as u covered everything about the place. I spent my initial 12 to 15 years in lansdown and jaiharikhal. i was a student of army school lansdown and gic jaiharikhal as well.
    so it brings a great feeling when i see the photographs of the place after a long period of time.
    well when i was in army school we use to live in jaiharikhal and we use to travel to lansdown by jeep(as you mentioned in the travelogue that it is the most loved mode of transport in the garhwal. And after the school sometimes we use to miss our jeep and then there is a shortcut way by which we can reach lansdown by walk before a jeep and that short route start from tiffin top.
    And yes sudeep it a big disappointment that you were not able to see the museum because the museum contains the legendary history of garhwal rifles regimental core.
    anyway this travelogue by you has touched my heart cause i still miss the place where i spent my initial stage of life. and keep up the work brother i will wait for a new destination explored by you.

    till then keep your spirit up...........................

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